Second day of surfing lessons. I got up early while Jeanne slept. Waves were much bigger today.
I didn't stand up all the way, best I did was get one leg up under me. It occurred to me that my reduced flexibility after ACL reconstruction probably makes it a little harder to bring that left leg up under my body the way it's supposed to.
I was nervous. I kept thinking about an older man I know who, some years back, broke his neck body surfing and is paralyzed from the neck down. I learned how to use the surfer's helmet (both arms cradling the head to cushion any impact), and that I should tumble with the wave instead of fighting it. I wiped out repeatedly. The first time, I actually felt my gorge rise from tumbling and nerves.
Surfer dude Matt, my instructor, said if you're not wiping out, you're not trying.
I don't think I'Ll be trading in my day job for the surfing circuit anytime soon.